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I have a confession to make; I am an occasional actor. This is a surprisingly
little known fact, but is none the less true. Extraordinarily eagle-eyed
people might have spotted me in 'The Butcher Boy' where I make a tiny,
but dramatic appearance. I mention this only because the last time I was
on the Dublin stage it was at The Gate, and the female lead in that production
was my guest - the actress, writer and journalist Jeananne Crowley.
Jeananne will shortly be a Northside resident, so we decided to try The
101 in Talbot street which will soon become one of her locals. Not only
that, it's a restaurant that is frequented by actors from both The Abbey
and The Gate, so it seemed a good choice for we thespians. Just to prove
the point, the first person that I saw in it happened to be my agent.
The 101 is up a flight of stairs which leads into a large room with a
central well with ten or so tables, which is surrounded by balustrades,
and raised a few steps above the central well are tables all around the
outside edge. It's an effective way of creating smaller spaces within
a large one. The first impression is that this is a Spartan restaurant;
the tables are chairs are plain, the decor is simple, the day's specials
are on a blackboard and so are the desserts. We were shown to our table
and handed menus and a wine list.
While Jeananne pondered the menu, I devoted myself to the wine list.
This is a wine list perfectly in keeping with the restaurant. There are
a dozen or so reds and whites, all except for one under £20. The
mark up is modest and the wines are well chosen. I've been complaining
of late that wine lists ought to mirror the average diner's spending patterns
and this one does just that. You can even get a decent wine for under
a tenner, which I like to see. When wines are priced reasonably like this
you can either enjoy a better wine for your money than you might otherwise,
or you could be tempted to second bottle - both of which are pleasant
options. My first choice, an Italian sparkler was out stock, but as it
happened my second choice of a Sancerre at £18 was precisely what
Jeananne wanted. The 101 has a full license, so if beer suits you better
it's there at £2.50 a pint, which seemed pretty fair to me.
The menu, when I finally turned to it, is as pleasant a surprise as the
wine list. The starters include the now obligatory goats' cheese crostini,
Babagnou served with crudites and pitta bread, French onion and leek tart,
and a Bouillabaisse all priced at £3.50. Main courses offered included
breast of chicken stuffed with mature cheddar; baked fillet of salmon
served with Parmesan; cashew nut and blue cheese rissoles, all priced
at £9.35 except for the vegetarian dishes which cost £7.85.
Specials included duck breast with Chinese-style oyster sauce, which cost
£10.75, and all desserts are £2.30. A la carte starters are
under £3.50, pastas are £5.35. I list all this at length because
it's so nice to see real food priced so reasonably.
Eventually, once we had found out that the Babagnou was an aubergine
dip, Jeananne selected that and I had the French onion and leek tart.
To follow she chose the duck breast and I had the medallions of pork served
with a creamy Calvadosbased sauce. There's nothing particularly complicated
about the starters we'd picked, but they were well made and well presented.
My tart was tasty and a generous portion; Jeananne's dip, when finally
I was allowed a taste, was very good.
Our main courses arrived and looked good on the plate. If I have a quibble
it's only this: small plates that have generous portions of food on them
make spilling the food easy - at least I'm inclined to. I do like big
plates, but this is just a little whinge. The important thing is that
what was on the plates was plain, good, well-made food. My pork medallions
were excellent and I liked the sauce. Being a foreigner myself I avoided
the apple sauce - a taste that even after thirty years I have failed to
acquire.
There's a big plus in having as a dinner companion someone who is not
only charming and witty, but who has a small appetite. My pork was long
finished, my plate empty apart from apple sauce, when rather deftly Jeananne
moved a big piece of duck from her plate to mine. Keen as I am to avoid
the reputation of being a glutton, it looked too good to miss, so I ate
it. We both agreed it was a fine dish. With the wine going down nicely
and our appetites slaked we began to look around the room. Jeananne, who
is fan of continental restaurants where whole families go to eat, was
struck by the fact that all age groups seemed to be represented - from
the very young to the old. My eye was struck by the fact that five out
of the nine men that I could see had beards, although it's harder to draw
any kind of conclusion from that. Certainly it seems that the 101 draws
it clientele from across the board. Or should that be the boards?
Very full now from one-and-a-half main courses nothing was going to tempt
me to a pudding, but thankfully Jeananne was prepared to try the rhubarb
fool, which she pronounced just fine. I was thinking at this point that
because the wine was good and reasonably priced another bottle would be
an excellent idea, but Jeananne, being a driver, would not be persuaded.
Instead we ordered two espressos and two brandies which is always a civilised
end to a meal. A total bill of £56.50 seemed very reasonable to
me for the quality of food that we'd eaten. I've said it before, but I'll
say it again: there's no escaping the fact that our expectations in restaurants
are tied directly to the price. If the price is high then we should expect
that the surroundings, the service and the food match what we pay. If
any of those things are out of balance, then there's a lingering sense
that somehow the meal has not been a success. What you get in the 101
is in balance; you get efficient service, good food, a simple enough dining
room and a price that is affordable.
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