It had been going on for months. Every time I met Dave Fanning and his wife Ursula Courtney we'd have the same conversation. 'When are we going to do a restaurant review?' Twice it's nearly happened, but something always went wrong. This time with Dave just back from interviewing movie stars in LA tired and jet-lagged, it was down to me and Ursula. So having finally found my guest for the night all I needed next was a place to go.

You've probably spotted that I don't always have a plan when it comes to choosing a restaurant - often I'll leave things to chance and sometimes it works out well and sometimes less so. I had one of those conversations with Ursula that go like this: 'Where would you like to go?' 'How about somewhere Chinese?' 'Did that recently.' 'What about fish then?' 'Did that recently too.' 'Italian?' 'Two weeks ago.' 'OK, then, you choose.' So I did - but this'll tell you more about what a stubborn and curmudgeonly person I can be than anything else. I'd been sent some very glossy brochures telling me about a new restaurant in Donnybrook called Avenue and I reacted by deciding that anything that needed that much PR didn't need me. But with an hour or so to think of somewhere it was all my ravaged memory could come up with.

I called around to collect Ursula and told her of my plan. 'It used to be the Courtyard,' I ventured. Her reaction wasn't encouraging. 'Oh God, I used to eat there when I was in RTE and I didn't like it much. You sure it's the same place?' I pretended I wasn't. So off we went with me worried sick that after all this time I'd be taking my guest to somewhere she disliked. We parked and walked into a courtyard set with tables. 'Yup,' she said, 'this is it, but it's changed.' If there had been a glimmer of sunshine this would have been a really nice place to sit, but handsome wood and glass doors beckoned us inside out of the wind. 'My God, it's changed.' said Ursula.

We were seated alongside a shiny curved bar where you can have a drink before going to eat. It also gave us time to take in what is a really attractive room. It's big and highceilinged with sky-lights running the length of the gabled roof. The colours are delightful, strong and vibrant blues and reds against an ochre backdrop. This is a place upon which much money has been lavished and it's been done with immense good taste. Just about everything you look at or pick up screams quality. It's very modern in feel, a bit too comfortable to be trendy minimalist, but it's the most visually striking dining room that I've been into for a long time. We were given menus and a wine list. While Ursula was wondering how the colour scheme might look in her kitchen I looked down the wine list, a single laminated sheet with reds on one side and whites on the other. The first thing I noticed I liked at once: it has no pennies on it. Wines are priced in whole pounds, or if you prefer in Euros as well, which I thought was a nice touch. And this is a generous wine list: the mark up is below average allowing you to find good wines for well under £20 that on many other lists come at well over, for example a Macon Lugny at £14, a Petit Chablis at £16, a Groot Constantia Pinotage for £18 or you can even have a bottle of French Champagne at £29. Memories of Cape Town made me choose the Plaisir de Merle at £21 from the RSA, which is a wine that I enjoy in both red and white.

The menu, too, is beautifully designed. Thought has gone into the presentation of every aspect of this restaurant and the more I noticed the more impressed I became. Ursula looked about her and said 'I really like this restaurant.' Starters range in price from £2.50 to £5.90 and include things like roast pigeon and fried quail's egg, Dublin Bay prawns in tempura, duck leg confit, foie gras and game sausage, and the ubiquitous grilled goats' cheese. Main courses are just as tempting; seared tuna, grilled turbot and peppered venison caught my eye. They range in price from £10 to £14. All side orders are priced at £1.95 and include salads, ratatouille and champ. But here's something that might be useful to know: there is a pre or post-theatre menu served pre between 6 and 6.45 or post between 10 and 11 where you can eat two courses plus coffee for £12.95 or three for £14.95.

To start Ursula had chosen the Dublin Bay prawns in tempura, whereas once I'd seen the words foie gras I really didn't need to look any further; to follow she'd chosen the seared tuna while I chose the braised lamb shank with butternut squash. Avenue has adopted that fine French tradition of bringing you a little something before you start your meal: this evening it was a cream of vegetable soup served in those pretty little Italian demitasses that would normally hold an espresso and it was very good. Three different breads were on the table, all of which I tasted and all of which I liked. As the meal went on I became increasingly impressed with the service; our waiter had that rare quality of being able to combine friendliness and charm with a professional efficiency. We were looked after throughout the meal with care and attention to detail, something that's a lot rarer than it ought to be.

The starters lived up to our high expectations, beautifully presented the wonton of prawns was complete with fried seaweed atop, and my foie gras came with venison sausage. Our main courses came and were every bit as right. The seared tuna was delicious and once again good to look at on the plate, and my lamb shank was perfectly cooked. I was even asked if I'd like another which with much self-discipline I declined. By the time we'd finished these I had become convinced that this was indeed an excellent restaurant. The meal had been faultless, the service extraordinarily good and the room a delight to sit in. Couple this with my charming dinner companion and you can see why I'm a good deal more effusive in my praise than usual.

A delicious rhubarb creme brulee between us ended an exceptionally good meal and I had an espresso ristretto to finish. Avenue had one last pleasure for me; a really fine espresso that arrived as traditionally it ought with a glass of water - the only time that's ever happened to me in Ireland. In case it hasn't been clear enough, just let me say this: go to Avenue.