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My son was home from Florence for an Easter break, and after a couple
of weeks of intense partying he found a free evening to accompany his
father to a restaurant. Obviously I treat this kind of father/son quality
time as a bonding experience, the sort of thing that will make our relationship
deeper, fuller and more meaningful. Apart from that, I actually enjoy
his company and I suspect that not all fathers of young men can say that.
So having settled on our outing we decided to further increase the pleasure
value by going into Dublin in my father's old car. This was a decision
that turned out to have a direct effect on the evening.
There was something pleasingly symmetrical about the drive; I remembered
the trips that I'd done in the same car with my father and here I was,
about the same age as my father was when he bought it, driving my son.
It seemed to complete a loop. The difference this time was that we were
all older - including the car. A big brute with a four-litre straight
six it got us as far as Stillorgan when a strange grating sound came from
the back wheels, the sort of noise that disintegrating wheel bearings
make. I nursed it into the shopping centre car park and stared glumly
at the rear end. I know an expensive sound when I hear it. Looking disconsolately
around me I noticed a sign saying 'Casanova' directly opposite me. Being
the sort of person who's open to portents and omens I realised at once
that this was where we were supposed to eat, the gods were willing it,
and anyway, I didn't want to think about wheel bearings for a while.
Giovanni Casanova, the famed eighteenth-century Venetian adventurer,
has given his name to a first-floor restaurant on the Kilmacud Road. Half-way
up the stairs there's a portrait of him on the landing, painted directly
onto the wall. The same artist has painted almost all the available wall
space inside the restaurant; a large lion of San Marco is on the middle
opposite wall on entry, with Venice in the mists on either side. Two paintings
on other walls explore Casanova's best-known attribute, his love of women.
A lot of the ceiling and much of the wall space between the paintings
have been sponged, and the windows which overlook the road below have
a stained-glass effect with little putti ornamenting the corners.
We had arrived in a very busy restaurant, but thankfully they found us
a table and we settled in, my son's artist eye taking in the artwork.
'Not bad,' he said, looking around. I started with the wine list, easy
enough as there were only seven reds and seven whites, with an Asti Spumante
as a sparkler. A Barolo and an Amarone were over twenty pounds, but the
rest were under, making it a fairly priced list. You'd have to ask if
you wanted any information on the wines, as neither the shipper nor the
years are listed. What is on the list is something dear to my heart -
the new DOC wine from my valley in Italy. The appellation was only granted
last year, so Atina DOC is new to the wine world. It's the typical wine
of my valley; a deeply-coloured and big-bodied red made from Cabernet
Sauvignon, but still thinking about the car I settled on a light white,
a Pinot Grigio from Minini at £15.90.
The menu is much longer than the wine list. Starters include a Caprese
salad, carpaccio, crostini, Parma ham and melon, bruschetta, wild mushrooms
and rice balls, all centred on the £3 mark. Then come the pizzas
which are priced between £6.50 and £7.50 and include all the
classics like Margherita, Napoletana, molicone, quattro stagione, quattro
formaggi as well as a vegetarian offering and a calzone. There's a listing
of pastas all between £7 and £8, chicken dishes, escalopes,
steaks and king prawns. Most of these dishes are under £10, side
orders come at £2.20 and desserts re all around £3. These
prices put Casanova firmly into the 'trattoria' category, since it would
be easily possible to have three courses for under £15, something
of a rarity these days.
Rocco started off his meal with the carpaccio and it was very much to
his liking. 'As good as any I've had in Florence', was his verdict. I'd
chosen the rigatoni - a large cut pasta - with the Amatriciana sauce,
made famous in the town of Amatrice, just outside Rome. It's one of those
classic sauces based on tomatoes, but it has the addition of pancetta
in Italy or bacon bits here. It was a tasty sauce, but not as reduced
as I would have liked and a little heavy on the chilli. Personally I like
chilli, but it's not a usual addition to this sauce.
Rocco claims that as a student in Florence his diet is nearly totally
farinaceous; pasta rice and pizzas. Hence when he's here, what he craves
is red meat. And red meat is exactly what he'd picked for his main course
- a fillet done on the griddle which came with a pepper and tomato sauce.
It was a tender piece of meat and Rocco enjoyed it, but to my palate the
sauce was oddly reminiscent of the one I'd had on my pasta, except it
didn't have the bacon. I'd ordered the escalope 'alla Romana', which normally
means with a white wine sauce, Parma ham and sage leaves. Here my escalopes
arrived with all of that plus some cheese, which I wasn't expecting. I
can't put my hand on my heart and tell you that this was an expert dish,
because it wasn't. The meat was tough, the accompanying vegetables were
largely unadorned and the dried sage didn't successfully take the place
of fresh sage leaves.
Despite this I was a happy punter. The service was excellent and attentive
and although the dishes I'd chosen were a little ordinary, I had a sense
that it was genuine and honest food. Not only that, it comes at a very
reasonable price. We finished the meal by sharing a chocolate cake, which
was exceeding rich, and finally a couple of decent espressos. With two
bottles of mineral water as well the bill came to £68.40, which
included a 10% service charge.
Back at the car I plucked up the courage to look underneath. A plastic
container was wedged under the back axle where it had been scraping noisily
on the tarmac. Breathing large sighs of relief, we enjoyed an uneventful
drive home.
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