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I came across something in print the other day that made me wonder: it
said that Dalkey was Dublin's most prosperous suburb. You always wonder
with facts like that, how do they know? How can they tell? On the face
of it it's a fair bet; there's a lot of very shiny and expensive cars
lining its roadsides, which has to be a sign of prosperity. Another I'd
suggest, is the number of restaurants that it supports.
Yet another one has recently opened called 'Jaipur', a restaurant that
serves Indian cuisine. I did what I've done twice before when visiting
Dalkey restaurants, I called Mary Finnegan, who lives there, and arranged
to have dinner with her. And just like before we arranged to meet in her
local, the eponymous and recently re-vamped Finnegans. Going to the gents
there I thought I might have stumbled into a Greek temple if it wasn't
for the porcelain-ware - all shiny marble on the walls and floors making
it very grand. It's a short walk from there down to the Main street where
Jaipur is.
A little tub-thumping now: I'm always hearing the rumour that men never
notice what women are wearing, and even if they've half taken it in, they
still can't tell the difference between a dress and a skirt. Well I can
tell you that Mary was wearing a jacket, but nothing plain about it -
it was a explosion of butterflies of every colour on a black background,
and very fetching it was too. This was set off with black trousers and
really smart Italian black boots. See? I noticed.
The first thing that hit us as we walked through the doors of Jaipur
were the amazing aromas floating out from the kitchens. There's no appetite
stimulant as powerful. We sat down almost drooling in anticipation. It's
a pleasantly decorated room; pastel colours on the walls, one of which
has canvasses of bright splashes of colour while another has more traditional
Indian scenes. Soft chairs upholstered in a suede-like material make you
instantly comfortable and the tables are set with good cutlery and heavy,
starched linen. Be prepared though to take time over the menu; it's very
long. It starts with a page of appetisers which are priced from €7-€10
and includes dishes like tiger prawns, chicken and crab cakes, chicken
tikka and filo pastry parcels. Either you need to be very knowledgeable
about Indian food or you have to ask because there are ingredients listed
that are unfamiliar - things like sprouted moong, gram, crisp mathri,
pickled potato, pounded lamb, kachumba, hung yoghurt garlic and roasted
pickling spices. I like that, it adds a sense of adventure to choosing
from the menu. The main courses are divided between sea-food, poultry,
vegetarian, and lamb, there are about five dishes in each category and
they're mostly priced around €17.
The wine list isn't particularly long or adventurous, but it's very fairly
priced. Plenty of regional French wines to pick from and a smattering
from the rest of the world. There was one wine that jumped off the page
and shouted 'pick me' - Chateau Kefraya from the Lebanon. I thought it
was about time I tried a Lebanese wine that wasn't Chateau Musar so I
picked it, and at €26 it was one of the more expensive wines on the
list. I'm glad I did, it was full-bodied and rich in flavours, a good
accompaniment for the food we ate.
After a lot of indecision and several visits by the waiter to see were
we ready to order, we settled on the Papri Chat for me and the Jugalbandi
for Mary. Well, not exactly, because the Jugalbandi was a bit of everything
so the two plates were really communal property. Both of us were pleased
with the what we had, there was a wonderful variety of flavours to explore,
but it's worth noting that after a while taste buds can easily be overpowered
by too many flavours. We took it slowly, giving time to each of the different
dishes, which is probably the best way to do it.
We'd ordered a prawn curry for Mary and a lamb dish for me, and to back
it up we'd added a lentil dish - the Tadka daal - as well as Pulao rice
and a basket of Naan bread. When it all arrived there was perhaps more
food on the table than we could eat, but we're nothing if not triers.
By adopting the same strategy as we had with the starters we were able
to make significant headway, trying different combinations and enjoying
them. Mary's prawns were big and fat as well as being perfectly cooked
and my lamb dish was robustly flavoured. It was around then that I realised
what a fortunate choice the Chateau Kefraya had been.
Perhaps it was because we'd taken the meal slowly that even after being
well fed at this point, we decided to have a dessert each. Mary picked
the kulfi, which is a yoghurt-based dessert, while I went for the more
traditionally named chocolate pudding. Both of these were well made and
tasty, and by the time we'd got nearly to the end of them I was ready
for an espresso. Sadly there was none to be had, so we finished the wine
instead over a lengthy conversation.
The bill came to €106.65, which was higher than I might have expected.
Looking through the bill now I see that the incidentals do mount up, €10
was accounted for by the bread and lentils. What you get for your money
in Jaipur is a pleasing room, very good service and well-prepared food.
But then again, if you're in Dublin's most affluent suburb, I suppose
there's price to pay.
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