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I'm not finding it too easy to write this week; I've just said goodbye
to an old friend that's been with me for thirty-five years. Call me sentimental
- but I feel the loss, especially now the weather is better. This old
friend was built thirty-five years ago in Newport Pagnell in England and
my father bought it a little later. Perhaps I should explain that this
friend had four wheels and over the past years I've lavished a great deal
of time and affection on it, after all an Aston Martin DB6 is a very pretty
car. A couple of days ago it burst into flame while I was driving it and
nothing could put out the petrol fire. It sits outside my window as I
write, a burnt out shell: a great beauty reduced to an eye-sore. It represented
for me a direct link to my father, and in a way it served much the same
purpose for my son. We worked on it together hoping that one day it would
be his, an aspiration that will now never be.
All this was yet to happen when I set off for Dublin to meet my guest
Caroline Sleiman. It's an odd thing, but I've had dinner with Caroline
in New Orleans and in London, but never in Dublin. That's a function of
her job in the drinks business, which takes her all over the world. Finding
a time when she was in Dublin wasn't easy, but having found a date it
seemed a good idea to try the Lebanese restaurant called the Cedar Tree,
since Caroline is half Lebanese and knows her way around a Lebanese menu.
The Cedar Tree is in Andrews Street and can be easily missed, since the
entrance is a single door that leads you down to a basement. When we arrived
it was very full, but we took our table between a wall and some pot-plants
and sat down. The first thing that I noticed were the tables and chairs,
which are very ornate. Intricate carving in wood, like strings of beads,
interlace the table tops while the flat areas are inlaid with mother-of-pearl.
The chairs are of the same design and, said Caroline, very typical of
Lebanese furniture.
Before I even attempted the menu I picked up the wine list. If, like
we were, you're tempted to a Lebanese wine, be warned, the prices are
horrendous. Chateau Musar comes at €50 and Chateau Kefraya a couple
of euros less, so by default the choice was from the rest of the world.
It's not a long list, but it did include a lot of wines and shippers that
I'd never come across, and nor indeed, had Caroline. After a lot of passing
the wine list to one another we settled on a Rasteau from the Cotes de
Rhone, which turned out to be unavailable. As I wearily went back to the
list our waiter said, 'That's a very good Rioja,' pointing to the Valdemar,
so we had a bottle of that at €23.40.
Now the menu is long, and if you don't have Caroline with you it could
be intimidatingly long, but I placed myself entirely in her hands. 'We
should do this the Lebanese way,' she said, 'lots of different dishes.'
So she picked out seven different starters and said 'if we're still hungry,
then we'll pick a main course.' Not a man to argue with a lady I agreed
at once. Shortly afterwards a Baba Ganouge, a Tabouleh, a Hommos Bilahem,
a Kibbeh, a Sanbousek Lahem, a Arayess and a Rakakat chicken arrived on
the table. This last dish, it transpired, is not pronounced as we might
expect; the 'k' is mostly silent so it sounds more like Rah-ah-aht. We
needed to do a little re-organisation of the various dishes to make room
on the table, a small price to pay for such a variety of goodies. What
we had was a humus, a humus with finely minced lamb, two different deep-fried
filo pastry parcels, a salad, some Lebanese bread - which is much like
pita bread - and skewered chicken pieces. I never asked Caroline whether
it was the Lebanese way or not, but it looked like just the sort of food
you could eat with your fingers, so I did. Pieces of the Lebanese bread
made perfect scoops for the various dips and the chicken and pastry parcels
came already in handy bite-sized pieces. I asked Caroline how authentic
it all was. 'Pretty good,' was her considered response, 'but mayonnaise
is very much an addition for the Irish palate.'
I do like eating like this; it's like a really good antipasto in Italy
when a plethora of dishes come to you, each one enough for a taste, but
not in themselves particularly filling. I enjoyed the various mixes of
flavours and had fun trying to match the dishes to other Mediterranean
dishes, especially Greek. There wasn't a lot left when these starters
were cleared away, although I hadn't eaten a lot of the salady bits. We
had a little hiatus while we considered the possibility of more food.
Some wine and mineral water later we were ready for a shared main course,
a mixed Meshwe and a mixed salad to accompany it.
I was surprised to notice that by the time we were eating our main course
there were very few diners left, and by the time we'd finished the Meshwe
we were the last remaining customers. Coffee was only of the watery filter
variety so I gave it a miss. While we were finishing the last of the wine,
the bill was presented in the manner of 'Here's your hat, what's your
hurry?' Quarter-past-eleven seems early enough to me to be clearing a
restaurant, but then again it was mid-week and we both had a working day
beckoning. A bill for just over €90, not including service, seemed
fair value for what we'd eaten.
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