I'm sorry if a tone of simpering smugness creeps into this week's review, but I am feeling a little pleased with myself and it's possible that that sense of self-satisfaction might just come through the prose. I get like that when I find, or I'm pointed to, a restaurant that combines these two things: good food and good value. And if the price is modest as well, then that warm glow of smugness verges on the unbearable. A couple of times in last few months I've whinged that there's very little in the way of mid-priced restaurants in Ireland. They're the sort of bistros, brasseries and trattorias that fill the continent well, but that somehow are hard to find here. Not impossible - I've had a couple of good meals recently that haven't hurt the pocket, and it's happened again this week, thanks entirely to my guest Marianne Heron who found the restaurant and suggested it to me as the venue for lunch together.

If by the end of this review you feel you want to try Berman and Wallace, then read this bit carefully, or you'll never find it. Take the road from Donnybrook to Clonskeagh, along the River Dodder, and almost at the Clonskeagh end there's a set of traffic lights some 100 metres before the T junction. Turn left here into the Belfield Office Park and then right. This will bring you to a barrier, where I chickened out, reversed, and then lost a quarter of an hour going up and down a maze of other roads. Be brave and confront the barrier. All you have to do is press the button and tell the voice on the intercom that you want to go to the restaurant and the barrier opens. Now you're still not home and dry, because the restaurant sits behind a block on your left and it's all one-way streets. If you keep on the road and keep taking legal left turns you'll come into an open space in the middle of a lot of tall office buildings and the round edifice in the centre is the restaurant.

What is very clear is that this is a restaurant that is patronised almost exclusively by the surrounding business park, and there's a possibility they won't like me telling you about this rather well-kept secret. After all, they may end up having to queue for a table when they never needed to before, so I hope they'll forgive me. A corollary of the fact that it's known only to the business park customers is that the restaurant doesn't as yet open for dinner, it only does lunch and Sunday brunch, although there's a trial dinner planned for Valentine's Day.

One half of the circular building is glass fronted, so it has a light and airy feel. The tables and chairs are plain and simple and the settings are too, so the bistro atmosphere is created quickly enough. As soon as we'd sat down we ordered a revitalising smoothie to get us started, a drink of many fruits that was stuffed with vitamins and minerals. This we sipped while studying the menu, which has a wide variety of choices and all of them very moderately priced. This holds true of the wine list as well, which carries a modest but sufficient selection of wines and all of them, without exception, carry a very moderate mark up. I settled on an Australian Shiraz called Yellow Tail rather selfishly, since I had my heart set on the Irish Stew, which was one of the day's specials.

For starters there was a choice of tossed leaf salad with croutons, Asian spiced fish cakes, Westphalian ham or spring onion soup, so I had the soup and Marianne chose the fish cakes, both of us agreeing to swap for maximum exposure to the dishes. Main courses were harder to choose because the choice was much larger. The menu included tagliatelle with salmon, deep-fried squid, bangers and mash, baked vegetable lasagna, chargrilled steak baguette, a house burger, roast chicken with cous-cous, fillet of beef at €15, smoked bacon and mushroom tart, goat cheese omelette and oven baked chicken Tikka. Apart from the beef fillet, most of the main courses were priced around the €10 mark, which is unusual enough these days. Marianne finally settled on the squid with a little encouragement from me, and I chose the Irish stew, a dish I haven't seen on a restaurant menu for a long time.

When the starters arrived I could see what Marianne meant when she'd told me that this was a 'proper restaurant'. Right from the off it was clear that a gifted hand was in the kitchen. A delicious cream of onion soup sat before me, and while I slurped it up happily I could hear little sighs of satisfaction arising from Marianne. Naturally I had to try those fish cakes and I was happy to find that they were very deftly spiced and accompanied by a Thai dip.

By two o'clock the office workers had gone and I started to hear the background music instead of the babble of voices, Ella Fitzgerald singing to be exact. So it was to Ella's 'Manhattan' that the main courses arrived - the Irish stew placed in front of me and the deep-fried squid for Marianne. I don't understand why you don't find Irish stew more often, especially in the winter. It's such a warming, filling, nourishing dish and it's indigenous. The floury potatoes had combined wonderfully with the juices and the meat was completely tender. But tender doesn't even begin to describe the squid - it was so tender that if it hadn't tasted of squid I might have thought it something else. I've never had less chewy squid and it came with the lightest of batters, almost a tempura.

With food as good as this a dessert was in order and we chose the rhubarb and ginger in filo pastry. Beautifully made with home-made ice-cream it finished off a really excellent lunch. The bill excluding service came to €69.