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I got caught a couple of times in Dublin's 'Operation Gridlock', that
series of measures designed by the chaps in charge of Dublin's traffic
whose purpose is to stop Dublin traffic from moving at all. Give them
their due, it all seems to be working perfectly. I was in Pearse Street
for close on three-quarters of an hour without moving, so the main aim
of the plan, causing a gridlock, is in flawless operation. Fun though
sitting in traffic jams is, I've done it twice this Christmas, so I may
not necessarily want to do it again.
You will be reading this some time in quiet tranquillity of the New Year,
but at the time of writing we haven't got to Christmas yet, so all the
fun of the city's festive traffic is still to be availed of. Still, as
I said, I've had a couple of goes at it, so I thought I might go somewhere
that didn't involve traffic or parking problems. Inspiration came as I
scanned the morning papers. 'Bray dirtiest town in Ireland', read the
headline. I was thinking of Bray and that that wasn't necessarily my experience,
when it hit me. All kinds of birds could be killed with the same stone
if I took a trip to Avoca Handweavers in Kilmacanogue. Firstly I'd get
to have quick drive on the only motorway in the world with a 40 mph limit
- the one that goes from Kilmacanogue to Kilpedder - I could get a meal
in the Terrace Cafe in Avoca Handweavers, plus I could do a whole lot
of Christmas shopping.
Armed with my plan my wife and I set off for Kilmac and with consummate
ease we got there, parked, and wandered through the food hall. Ok, it's
not Harvey Nicks or Harrods, but for provincial Wicklow it's pretty impressive.
It's got all of those high-value foods that come in beautiful packaging
that are exactly the thing for Christmas prezzies, things like flavoured
olive oil in fancy bottles, Spanish anchovies in Art Deco tins, a whole
range of Carluccio's foodstuffs, fancy chocolates (see below), and a huge
array of tasty tit-bits in jars. As an aside, I'm really puzzled why anyone
would spend a lot of money buying rosemary flavoured olive oil. All you
need to do is put a sprig of rosemary into a bottle of good, virgin olive
oil and voila! Two weeks later you've made your own. Still, there were
things on the shelves that got me spending my money. I grant you they
were all Italian, but they really are very good to eat and they're made
by people who actually care about what they put into the jars. I ended
up with the Mongetto tuna stuffed peppers, which I've had before and they
go really well with a chilled glass of prosecco or white wine. Then I
got some spreads to put on crostini - artichoke, spicy sun dried tomato
and porcini mushroom, perfect for the moments when you need a quick snack.
I was happy to find La Bonissima balsamic vinegars from Modena, which
are among the better ones available. Thinking about snacks had me buying
the Mongetto marinated, hot peppers for putting on bruschetta, and lastly
I bought a range of sauces for the sheer convenience of it. I assiduously
avoid pasta sauces on the supermarket shelves since I haven't found one
yet that I can't do better myself, but here I found a really good range
of sauces from Mongetto again, the Mezzanotte, (midnight), artichoke,
capers and olives. Armed with all of these wonderful goodies it was time
to sit down and have a well-deserved late lunch.
There's something pleasing about the way they do the food in Avoca. It
has that simplicity of 'what you see is what you get'. It's there, displayed
on the counters, you can see the choices that are available for the day's
lunch and once you've made your choice there's no waiting, you can have
it right away and take it to a table. I made the same mistake that I've
made here before, the one where you like the look of things so much you
end up with far more food than you can actually eat. We took our place
in a fairly fast-moving line of people, tray in hand, and moved along
the food counters. The first thing that caught my eye was the ham and
leek plait, which I knew I just had to have. Susie was taken by the caramelised
onion tart and ordered that. Then I noticed a carrot and coriander soup
on the blackboard, so I ordered that for myself. I realised that this
was a blunder when what I assumed was a piece of pie that would be cut
in half before I got it, came in its entirety onto my plate. That and
three different salads as well, all included in the price.
There's wine available of course, but since this was the afternoon we
both felt like something non-alcoholic, Susie drinking mineral water and
me my favourite orange drink, Orangina. At the table the enormity of the
portions became apparent to me as I tried without success to finish my
soup and then my pie. Both Susie and I were delighted with our respective
choices and we swapped forkfuls. What makes this meal worthy of comment
is that it was produced at the height of the Christmas pressure in a very
crowded shop. It's so often the case that when a place gets busy the underlying
systems collapse, but here the standards were kept high despite the rush,
and that impressed me.
As simple snack lunches go, this was very good. Decent ingredients and
well-made pastries made it a pleasure to eat here after the hard work
of shopping was over. The food bill came to just under €32 for the
two of us.
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